This cost around $100 to build and all of the components came from Jaycar, except the brackets which were made with 1.2mm sheet metal. Earthbound1 likes this #2 dave brock Mercury-Atlas I'm' glad I did, because I didn't like the first color that I had chosen. I laughed, packed up the cell with a long letter describing the series of events that led to the return, and put it in the mail. I also decided to make a separate mounting plate for the stepper motor, since I figured aligning the shafts precisely would be all but impossible. In my build, the minimum eyepiece-to-secondary mirror distance (13) plus the primary-to-secondary mirror distance (57) equals the focal length of 71, which is roughly 4.5 times the width of the 16 mirror. I told them I was on my way. To glue the side bearings and rocker sides to full thickness, I covered a side with wood glue, then carefully lined up the pieces and put two small nails into the pieces to hold them in place. Again from the main FILES page, go to "ASCOM DRIVERS" and download everything. This motor has a larger shaft diameter (8mm) and is quite a bit heavier overall than the direct drive motor, mainly because of the gearbox. The motor is much lighter than the geared motor. 5 weeks after I had ordered the mirror, I called to ask about its status. The core of the telescope, the steel mirror cell holds and adjusts the heavy, curved primary mirror. scope, I only put knobs on the outsides. ill ask him for a detailed list of what he used and when i get that ill post it here for you. This allows for a small clearance between the outside of the tube and the inside of the tube box (14 3/8). Given any mirror measurements, PLOP will provide the ideal support layout and how much distortion to expect for any number of flotation points. really stiff and light for their size, and even though a #2 is pretty I had already made a lightweight focuser for on Step 1, Richards in our local astronomy club. I wanted a tight / press fit, so I only added half that, 0.25mm. . Lining up this center point with the center of the top of the side bearing, I brought the corner of the side bearing up to the edge of the tube box and attached it with screws. drneilmb, thanks for sharing the focuser design. If not, you may need to design and print your own bracket(s), gears, and so on. Rock Paper Scissors Using Tinkercad Circuits and Arduino, Punchy the MECH & the Autonomous Fight Club, Soft-sensor-saurus | an E-textile Soft Sensor Soft Toy With LED Light. Thanks Bob. Using a compass, I drew lines for the inside and outside of the Ebony Star ring on the top and bottom of the rocker bottom. It turns out the the extra 1/16 allowed far too much side to side movement between the rocker and ground board. My secondary is 4; for tips on choosing size, click here. My other telescope is a Celestron NexStar C6E. I will post the pic of final focuser once ready. I was certain not to move the jig at all before cutting the second circle. Until I see photos of this scope setup for these pictures and an explanation of the exact equipment used, I cannot believe that these pictures were taken with this OTA. In my build, the cage was cut on a CNC router from plywood, with threaded T-nuts added to support a truss assembly. In the "ARDUINO FIRMWARE" folder, in it you will find a ZIP file "myFP2-Firmware 312-1.zip". After the second call, I received a response that it would be ready at the end of the following week. Not worth the effort, price is tooo high. Perfect for visual observations with very heavy mirrors. Use the externalMirror Edge Support Calculatorto decide whether to use a two-point, four-point (whiffletree), or sling support. Below are cutting diagrams and diagrams of the rocker and tube box with side bearings. The last time I checked, that particular SBIG camera used on TelescopeGeek had an eight month lead time.A 20" scope gathers 2.6 times more light than a 12.5" scope, therefore equivalent exposures on this one would take 200+ minutes, at least. I had talked with their owner about mirrors and mirror cells once, and I was very impressed by his knowledge of telescope building. To get a slide-fit in a 3D printed part, you normally make the hole 0.5mm larger than the shaft. One 6in dob I made was a complete failure. I don't have the skills to build a focuser using a. This is where you will use screws to strongly attach the focuser onto the tube. Drill a hole and attach the ball head using a shorter 1/4" 20 bolt. So I was looking for a cheap, light-but-sturdy design for a Feel free to take on that part if you like, but you're on your own :-). I had chosen a boxy, rigid design for the binocular scope, so I decided to order a mirror cell from them because the owner had talked about a new cell he was excited about. flexing. This extra space would allow the tube to be repositioned within the tube box to rotate the eyepiece or balance the tube. With the DRV8825 and Arduino Nano plugged in, the basic board is complete. Here we see the following components installed: Notice we are NOT populating the parts of the board intended for Wifi or BLED. The next day, I called back to ask their opinion about the kind of spider and secondary holder to order. A few months later I ordered some other things from Scopestuff, including strips of Ebony Star laminate for the side bearings, a ring of Ebony Star for the rocker bottom, a strip of teflon to cut pieces for the ground board and side bearings, and a new base for my Telrad finder. Nice one. I also wanted to buy the other mechanical partsmirror cell, spider, secondary holder, and focuserso that the performance of these pieces was not limited by my skills. The focuser is the part of the telescope that holds the eyepiece or camera, and by moving in or out, closer or farther from the . It uses a primary mirror to capture and reflect light, a secondary mirror to direct light into an eyepiece, and a focuser to make fine adjustments for viewing. Drawing lines between opposite corners of the tube box sides allowed me to locate the center point on each side. Install on Windows 10, this part is pretty straightforward. Low, or Zero slop when changing direction. Primary telescope mirror aftermarket, homemade, or custom-made. you could probably space the bearings 3/4" apart instead of 1" and mount The curved sides of the Side Bearings are also covered with strips of Ebony Star that glide on the teflon pads on the curved edges of the Rocker Sides (figure 3). It stalled when tension on the belt increased. can't click on it or copy and paste it; it's a graphic file to thwart Keeping with the 'simple ' part of your request, here is a helical 2"/1.25" focuser made from std plumbing parts. I decided that my best option was to scale up their 8 inch design for a 12.5 inch scope and sacrifice the portability and easier storage of a truss scope for something that I felt confident in building myself. I want to make this direct drive system work. Sh2-169 and Sh2-168, IC5146 Cocoon Nebula, Caldwell 19, Sh 2-125. There was the expense, for one, but also the Also no obvious diffraction spikes in the m31 photo. Nice work and great instructable! help eliminate slippage when the focuser is pointed straight upward. At some point in the building process, my goal became to finish the scope by RocheStar Fest, an annual event of the Rochester Astronomy Club. Telescope Magazine. Staples or finishing nails work fine, but be sure they dont bump up above the surface of the plastic. by cranking Gift the gift of Make: Magazine this holiday season! If you want a Crayford focuser with a knob instead of turning the draw tube, then Jerry Oltion's designhttp://www.jerryoltixycrayfords.htm using box frames and knitting needle drive shafts is also a fairly easy build. Here is what I was working on but looks like I need a better design. I then ran a bead of glue on the mark, and after it dried I cut out the nylon up to the glue. Two inch internal diameter drawtube. Perfect for astrophotography or during high power planetary observation. Bore out some 2.5 inch bar and mill a flat down the side making sure it is lined up. The sides were attached with wood glue and clamps with a few small brads to hold everything in place. You really need a step ladder even for my 10" when pointed overhead. It turns out that sonotubes are a stock item in 8 inch, 10 inch, 12 inch, and sometimes even 16 inch diameters. During on-site assembly, attach each truss to its mounting T-nut using a bolt with a thumbscrew knob. I had initially allowed for more of a gap, but realized once I cut the pieces and held the tube inside them that my gap was too large. Fairly easy to build and could be adapted to suit any SCT focuser. But -- you have to be careful that the mechanism is true and the motor does not have a load on it at any time, otherwise it will 'stall' and stop moving. Having an RS trade counter 2 miles away is such a luxury! an eyepiece. "https://ssl." After a dry fit of the rocker to make sure that the tube box with side bearings would fit well, I glued the rocker sides to the rocker front, holding them in place with small nails and clamping overnight. the bearings right at the edge of the frame, reducing the frame to var gaJsHost = (("https:" == document.location.protocol) ? It takes the unknown out of focusing, and is easy to re-focus between filters, or refocus several times during a long exposure run as the world cools down. Once I had my design set, I was ready to buy the parts. Connect the Arduino USB cable and upload some test sketches. Fire up focusmax, and shoot some images! The overall project is super cheap, we're building this thing for something like $50 in materials. Well, it sort of looks like a focuser.. See pictures below. So I decided to make my own, using my normal "blunder in naively and see what happens" approach to making things. I don't have the skills to build a focuser using a. Helical is one of the option i am considering. Dobsonian telescopes are popular with amateur telescope makers for their ease of design and construction, portability, and their use of large optical mirrors. So, as they say, "back to the drawing board". I did run into a small problem with the focuser. A bit of a monster! This motor is available on Amazon. on Step 5, 9 years ago an inch or so apart, so the focuser body could be pretty low profile. Slewing to find an object and then tracking an object on the sky, so when you make a homemade telescope on the motorisation process you will need high speed for slewing and low speed for tracking or fine movements. The hole did need to be enlarged slightly by moving the bit within the hole , but in the end, the fit seems right. Able to shift heavy loads of kit ie over 1000g. This combination has the best resolution (steps/revolution), so I didn't see any reason to build anything else. The blue pieces of the rocker box and ground board are arranged as in the diagrams in (figure 2). Dobsonians come in all shapes and sizes, from small 4-8 builds all the way up to massive 24-36 creations. We then spread contact cement over the remaining veneer and tube surface, waited for the glue to dry, and carefully rolled the tube over the veneer. I decided to order an aluminum mirror cell from University Optics instead so that the mirror could be supported at 9 different points. Un-real!!! The ARtemis module came in a kit form actually just two circuit boards one of which I had to source the parts, build and box myself. Attach the eye piece to another cardboard piece and pass it through the hole from the inside of the tube. My homemade motorized telescope focuser for Celestron C8. If your optical train is heavy and the focuser has to bear it (see above) then this motor may be a better choice. This design could be adapted to practically any telescope or focuser, so I've kept my outline on the project brief. on Step 5, After much debit and doubt i have taken the photos down cause i cannot be 100% sure that they were taking from my scope as i was not there to verify them and i do not want my contest entry to be based on photos and not the build process. An electronic focuser, which moves the focus knob through a combination of hardware and software, solves this problem. stronger, but would give me a coarser focus action because of their Cost is $25 - $30, and you will have 5 PCBs in about a week. I welded mine from steel square tubing. Thicker knitting needles would be even It took yet another call a week later for the items to actually be mailed. I had designed the tube box so that there would be an extra inch around the tube. Here are a few photos of the "bracket", which is a simple 3D printed plate that mounts to the telescope's focuser ring, and serves as a mount for the stepper motor. When you figure out the interior diameter is just a nudge over 2". Some of these are essential for the basic functionalities of our websites. Our websites use cookies to improve your browsing experience. New Creation Tamil 6.96K subscribers Welcome to New Creation Tamil Our Channel include of Guiding Videos: 1.DIY Projects 2.Awesome Ideas 3.Tips You are inter with New Creation Tamil you can enjoy. See captioned photos 22-25 here:https://www.cloudyniractor-focuser/ for more detail on building a flush valve focuser, as Bob mentions. Home centers and hardware stores did not carry large sizes. Crayford-style design with four bearings and one driveshaft. You need a drawtube of course. The cage should be a hollow cylinder about wider than the mirror, with the focuser mounted directly facing the secondary mirror. Finally, I glued a strip of Ebony Star laminante to the curves edge of each side bearing using contact cement, using a flush edge bit on a router to bring the edge of the laminate even with the edge of the wood after the cement had set. I like the old way of using stepper motors and other stuff introduced years ago by Mel Bartels, he is a master for me. Rack & Pinion: For many years the standard focuser was of the rack-and-pinion type - a small pinion gear moved the flat toothed rack that was attached to or built into the moving focusing tube that holds the eyepiece.However, this geared system was far from ideal, with some wobble due to the friction fit between the fixed and moving tubes and backlash due to the gears. my thoughts naturally gravitated toward a boxy focuser to go with it. forces the knitting needle against the drawtube and the drawtube against The Crayford focuser is a simplified focusing mechanism for amateur astronomical telescopes. It While I will freely admit that most astro-photography is WAY beyond me, you certainly do NOT need a $3200 camera to do so. The version number "312" here may change if Robert posts new firmware. on Introduction. A project collaboration and documentation platform. Before attaching the sides and front to the bottom with wood screws, I wanted to make sure those screws would not interfere with the Ebony Star ring that would be attached to the rocker bottom. knitting needle where it goes through the hole, so it's not a big deal, I ground and figured the mirror with little troubles, making my focault tester, etc. Best Wishes, Reply In the sub-folder "Cases" you will see many variants of the case for the DRV8825 based focusers. Measure the diameter of the exposed shaft. I waited until dark and pointed the scope at the sky. (I didn't have the primary mirror yet). - Bill. off the bearings. on Introduction. This unit takes signals from your computer and drives the stepper motor on the focuser. I tried to call, but the voice mail had a recording stating that the customer was unable to receive messages. We are now ready for some testing. The arc at the top of the sides needed to have a radius 1/8 inch larger than that of the side bearings to account for the thickness of the teflon pads that would fit between. Thanks again for the 'ible. Given that you can make the drawtube any length you Your astrophotographer friend may have included his own images from his setup. Now attach the screw eyes and the rubber band on the side of the board. I then attached the Ebony Star ring using contact cement. The bearings only need to be It was important that the two circles be identical because the edges had to match perfectly when glued together and the two side bearings had to be identical in order for the altitude motion to work well. my 12.5" trackball, but I didn't I read the entire thread and surely its going to help me building my focuser. forward and back along with the drawtube when you focus, and you'll get Be creative!

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